Q&A with Wisdom
Here are the questions and answers:
1) Are there grades of sodium hydroxide? What makes the difference?
I am not sure is there is a certain grade, but in my experience I am aware of Sodium Hydroxide Anhydrous. This stuff is nothing to play with. Don’t ask how I know. But I’m alive.
2) When can you do large water discounts in cold process soap making?
It’s up to you and how much water you want to remove, but this is a technique for advanced soap makers because the process is risky. You need to use a soap calculator at all times. Usually 33% is a good start.
Here is a link that explains this better:http://www.aquasapone.com.au/soapmaking/discountedcp.html
3) How do you make handcrafted bars last longer?
As a finished soap, you will need to have a good soap dish that will drain out water. You don’t want to use a soap dish that doesn’t drain out because the soap will get soft and the soap will not last; it’s like wasting soap.
Also, it depends on the recipe. It is important to have a good balance of saturated fats and unsaturated fats. It is important to know the properties of each of the oils used. The SAP value of the oils also makes a difference.
After the soaps are cured, wrapping the soaps helps the soap fragrance last longer because it is protected from the elements.
4) What are the internationally accepted names of the following ingredients: soda ash, caustic soda, sulfuric, texacol, antisol, and nitrisol?
Sodium carbonate – Soda Ash
Sodium hydroxide/Lye – Caustic Soda
Sulfuric acid – Sulfuric Acid
5) Can we use castor oil in liquid soap production?
Yes. Foor grade castor oil is great for lather, but you will need to use a soap calculator. You will also have to use a potassioum hydroxide for this process.
6) Will a 2212kg batch of soap be okay with 16g of fragrance oil?
No. 2212kg of soap will require 2485lbs of fragrance oil, assuming a 0.5 ounce per pound of fragrance, which is what I use. It’s the usual rule of thumb.
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